Bolivia’s Lagunas Route is legendary among motorcycle travellers and overlanders for its extreme remoteness, high-altitude terrain and vast, otherworldly landscapes. This packed guide covers everything you need to know to tackle it on a motorcycle.
This motorcycle guide is based on our ride through Bolivia during our round the world trip. The guides on this website are constantly updated to keep them up-to-date.
Contents
The Lagunas Route Bolivia Motorcycle Guide
By Andy Davidson
Mad or Nomad: Round the World Motorcycle Traveller
High and deep in the Bolivian Altiplano is one of South America’s most challenging motorcycle routes – the Ruta de las Lagunas. It stretches across vast, isolated landscapes, through high-altitude deserts and flamingo filled lakes. The entire ride is off-road and is one of the most remote places to ride a motorcycle in the world.
If you fancy having a go and riding it, have a read of this detailed guide first. We’ll discuss our experiences and what we think of the ride, the road conditions, environment, how to enter and exit, route info, accommodation and more. Here’s what you need to know about motorcycling the Lagunas route.
What is the Ruta de las Lagunas?
The Ruta de las Lagunas is one of South America’s (if not the world’s) most remote and toughest motorcycle routes. In Spanish it’s Ruta de las Lagunas (route of the lagoons) and in English it’s Lagunas Route.
The Lagunas route is an area connecting the town of Uyuni, Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. There’s not a specific road to take, instead there are hundreds of tracks and rough routes to choose from. We’ll get to that in a bit, but for now, think of it as a general direction between the two towns that passes through Bolivia’s Altiplano.
The Lagunas area sits inside Bolivia’s Altiplano (one of the highest in the world) and runs through the Eduardo Avaroa National Park. The Altiplano itself is a vast, high-altitude plateau that stretches across Bolivia, Peru, Chile and Argentina between the east and west chains of the Andes Mountains.
The Lagunas route is named for its mineral-rich lagoons, which were formed by ancient volcanic activity and mineral deposits. You’ll find these lagoons on your route as well as a surreal landscape shaped by ancient volcanic history and an average elevation of nearly 4,000 metres.
Our experience
We rode the Ruta de las Lagunas on two Honda CRF300Ls during our round the world motorcycle ride in February 2025.
You can read about our experience and ride there in our Bolivia blog.
READ MORE: Bolivia and the Edge of the World
Route overview: start, end, distance and time
Start and end – Most motorcycle travellers start their ride in Uyuni, Bolivia. There’s no point heading down all the way to the Lagunas route unless you’re planning on continuing all the way through and out to Chile and San Pedro de Atacama. It can be done as a loop with a return to Uyuni, but that’s a long way to go down and up.
Time – We suggest taking four days to get from Uyuni, Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama. This gives you plenty of time to take it easy each day, stop for photos and enjoy the route. If you’re on a time limit, you could do it in three days.
Distance – From Uyuni to San Pedro is approximately 500 kms. However, there is a petrol station approx. 90km in from Uyuni at San Cristobal. This is the last petrol station before you veer off for the route. The station is located here on Google Maps. If you fill up here, then your ride to the next available petrol station in San Pedro will be approx. 425kms. We’ll discuss petrol more in the petrol section further on in this guide. If you have a particularly small fuel tank, you may be able to find fuel in the small town of Alota, but it will be from bottles.
The different motorcycle route options for the Lagunas
There are two main routes for the Lagunas: the west route and the east route.
The western route is the “real” Lagunas route. The east is easier, but pointless because you’ll miss all the lagoons and beautiful sights and just be on the 4×4 road, so it’ll be non-stop ruts the entire way down.
Lagunas motorcycle route map
Here is our Ruta de las Lagunas map for motorcycle travellers and overlanders.
It’s important to note that the best part of this route is from the north to the middle point – marked as the Rock Tree on our map. If you follow our rough line, you will find yourself on a fun off-road route in a high-altitude vast expanse and picking your own tracks. It’s solitary on this section and it’s far less likely you’ll see anyone else along the way.
Once you hit the Rock Tree, you’re now on the main route. From here to the southern border there is only really one main route and you’ll have to stick to it. But unfortunately so do all the tourist filled 4x4s, and that means the route is serious washboard filled with deep sections of sand. It’s dull and you’ll need to concentrate hard if you want to move quickly, which is the same reason I suggest avoiding the eastern route as it’s all like this.
So, enjoy and spend most of your time in the northern section. You’ll find points of interest and pins for most places we think you’ll find relevant in our map with notes attached.
Navigation
There are no road signs along the route. You may find hundreds of tracks veering off in different directions as well. Most of the time they’ll link up, they’re where 4x4s have gone off-piste to find a less rutted track. As long as you keep a general direction you should be fine.
We recommend using the Maps.Me app for your ride through the Lagunas. Google Maps does not show hardly any of the roads or tracks. While Maps.Me does and it works offline (and it’s free). Simply download the app and then download the Bolivia map. Use our downloadable Google Map to pin points to your Maps.Me map and also save the Google Map as a backup.
When to ride and weather conditions on the Lagunas
The best time to ride the Lagunas route is from May to October during the dry season when the weather conditions are more predictable.
During wet season from December to March you can find heavy rain and serious lightning storms. Also consider the altitude, it can get exceptionally cold and windy on this route.
It’s best to start your ride early in the day and stop before the winds and storms come in. Download and use the Windy app to keep on top of the weather.
What to see along the Ruta de las Lagunas
Laguna Honda: This is one of our favourite lagoons – don’t miss it.
Laguna Colorada: A striking red lake, home to thousands of flamingos.
Laguna Verde: A vivid green lake at the foot of a volcano.
Laguna Hedionda: A sulphur-rich lake with incredible reflections.
Sol de Mañana Geysers: High-altitude geothermal fields with bubbling mud pools. Don’t spend too long and definitely don’t camp.
Salvador Dalí Desert: A surreal landscape named after the painter.
Rock Tree: A desolate rock formation in the middle of the desert.
Flamingos: You’ll see thousands of pink flamingos in the lagoons, but also keep your eyes peeled for wild ostriches – they’re fast.
Road conditions
This is a tough ride and not suitable for beginners. You don’t need to be an expert rider, but it would massively help if you have decent experience off-road and in sandy sections. If you ride off-road, but hate sand then don’t worry – you can get through this route by taking it slow and paddling your way through with your feet down in the deep sections. Just be careful not to burn your clutch.
Expect gravel, sand, deep ruts, and the dreaded washboard. Altitude sickness can also be an issue, as much of the route is above 4,000 meters (13,000 feet).
This may be unpopular opinion, but personally, we think the route is overhyped. It is remote, vast and feels like you’re riding on a different planet. But the road conditions are terrible. The first half of the route is beautiful as you’ll be out there on your own choosing your own tracks. But on the second half (which starts at the Rock Tree – pinned on our downloadable map above) you’ll have no choice but to ride in the deep ruts of tourist filled 4x4s. And that’s a very long and boring ride, which is why choosing the right route for this ride is so important.
Of course, as adventure riders we love off-road and bad roads, but the second half isn’t fun off-roading. It’s not technical or challenging – it’s just constant hard washboard filled with deep pockets of sand waiting to catch you out. The constant vibrations and hammering of the washboard is not fun. So expect a good ride on the first half and a boring one on the second.
Hopefully, the images below will give you a good indication of what to expect.
What are the main challenges and is it dangerous
Altitude – Much of the route is above 4,000 meters (13,000 feet), making acclimatisation essential. If you’re riding this route, it’s highly likely you’ll be on your own bike as rental and tour companies won’t venture here. So that means it’s also likely you will have acclimatised. But if you feel yourself falling sick, take a step back, stop, sip plenty of water and rest.
Terrain – As mentioned above, expect deep sand, washboard roads, and rocky sections. This type of terrain can easily and quickly catch you out. Keep your concentration high, stop for breaks often and take your time.
Weather – The Lagunas is known for its harsh winds, freezing nights and unpredictable conditions. We had a freezing hail storm in the morning and a sweaty sand storm in the afternoon followed by a lightning storm in the evening all in one day. Pack accordingly.
Is it dangerous?
In Uyuni we met two Colombian adventure riders. We asked about their trip and they asked about ours. We mentioned we were heading for the Lagunas route tomorrow morning and they were surprised “Have you not seen all the videos? People break bones there, it’s dangerous. No way we’re going that way”. We’ve since heard a bunch of people say the same sort of thing. So, it seems like the Lagunas does have a reputation for being dangerous.
This is most likely due to its remote nature and how long it takes to do the off-road ride. After continuously riding on flat remote land, tired and potentially cold it’s easy to make a mistake or get caught out by a pocket of sand. And if you’re alone and fall off, then that’s when things get dicey. So yes, like adventure riding anywhere in the world, there is an element of danger. Take appropriate precautions like telling people where you’re going and consider carrying an emergency SOS device.
And don’t underestimate the expanse, size and distance of this route. It is huge and remote. Here’s a selection of photos to give you an idea.
Accommodation and camping
You can find accommodation along the way. We recommend taking four days to ride the western route, and if you do, you can find accommodation to stay in each night. We’ve pinned our recommended places to stay in the route map at the top of this guide.
If you’re only going to stop at one place on the ride, then we recommend this one. The owner’s name is Fermin and you can contact him on WhatsApp: +591 72371714
Note that the tour groups often fill these lodges up quickly, so reserve on WhatsApp first if you can.
And of course, due to the remote nature, you will only be able to pay by cash.
Camping is also a great option, but take into account the nights can be cold and there may be strong winds. It’s desolate out there so you may have to spend some time looking for decent cover.
READ MORE: Motorcycle Camping Guides
Bolivia to Chile border crossing in the Lagunas
The Bolivia border is smooth and easy. Just before you reach the customs office, you’ll see the park ranger office where you must either buy a ticket if you’re entering the park from Chile, or show proof of purchase if you are exiting. If you didn’t buy a ticket on your ride you can just buy it here for 150BOB.
Then it’s customs. You’ll need to scan the QR code in the office with your phone (wifi is provided for free at the custom office) and fill out the same form you would have completed when you entered the country. Then your TIP will be stamped out and you can ride on to Immigration a few kilometres away.
The immigration office has received some very negative reviews on iOverlander, but we found the official there to be super friendly. We were stamped out in two seconds and sent off with a big smile and a wave.
It’s then onto Chile. Keep following the road and you’ll eventually reach an ominous looking building at the end of the road. The doors will open like a spaceship hanger and you enter with your motorcycle. Immigration, customs and SAG (food/environmental agency) are all inside. Make sure you declare any foodstuffs – there’s a lot you can’t take into Chile. If you try and hide it and are caught you will be fined. Other than that, they’re also very friendly.
Once you’re free to go, it’s a long downhill ride to San Pedro. Prepare for a heat wave as you can feel it getting hotter the further down you go. San Pedro is a nice town, but expensive and touristy.
Costs
There is a park entrance fee of 150BOB per person. You can buy your ticket at Laguna Colorada here. If you don’t buy your ticket here, you will need to buy it at the office by the customs house when you exit Bolivia.
Essential prep and tips
As you may have figured by now, this is a very remote route with limited services. Here are some preparation recommendations.
Riding gear: Make sure you have decent riding gear and warm clothing for the cold temperatures and winds. Your riding kit should be protective and carry waterproof throwovers.
READ MORE: Adventure Riding Gear Guides
Motorcycle: Your bike should be suitable for handling this sort of terrain. If you’re riding a large adventure bike and are overpacked with a lot of weight, you may find some of the sandy sections tricky.
READ MORE: Adventure Bike Guides
Tools and repairs: Off-road or dual purpose tyres are a must. Lower your tyre pressures to cope with the sand and continuous gravel. Carry spare tubes if you’re not running tubeless, puncture repair equipment and whatever tools you may need.
READ MORE: Workshop Guides
Petrol: We discussed fuel in the petrol section above. But, consider that it’s a minimum of 425km from San Cristobal to San Pedro and you’ll use more fuel because you’re off-roading. So, carry any extra fuel you may need. See our Petrol section in the Bolivia motorcycle travel guide.
READ MORE: Motorcycle Travel Guide Bolivia
Navigation and apps: We recommend downloading and using Maps.Me as it’s free and shows the trails through the Lagunas. You shouldn’t get lost if you use this. We also suggest using the Windy app for weather forecasting and iOverlander for any warnings.
READ MORE: The Best Apps Guide
Emergency: Don’t expect to find any phone signal on the Lagunas route. We recommend carrying an emergency satellite SOS device on your motorcycle travellers should you need help.
READ MORE: Emergency Satellite Devices Guide
Health and Safety: As with any ride, consider your health and safety. Make sure you have good travel insurance in place before undertaking rides like this. And ensure you’re clued up on health and safety. Have a read of our Insurance, Health and Safety guides in the Admin section.
READ MORE: Admin Guides
Camping: Camping can be incredible on the Lagunas, but do check the weather before you start the route so you know what to expect. Temperatures plummet at night and it can be freezing. Also try and find cover from the serious winds and don’t camp next to any mountains where rocks may fall.
READ MORE: Motorcycle Camping Guides
Food and water: We always suggest carrying plenty of emergency supplies and water just in case you need it. You can find small markets along the way and food stops at lodgings. Check iOverlander for these places and mark them on Maps.Me before you start your ride.
Read more on motorcycle travel in Bolivia
Thanks for checking out the Ultimate Ruta de Las Lagunas Motorcycle Guide. We hope you enjoyed it! Here’s a few more articles on motorcycle travel in Bolivia and South America that we recommend you read next.
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Are you planning a motorcycle trip in Bolivia? Do you have any questions, tips or great route suggestions? Let us know in the comments below.
Hi, my name is Sebastián and im planning to do the lagunas route. Congratulations for this espectacular description of the route. I made this route in 2012, and I barely remember the track, so I started browsing within my photos and memories, and then I found this great summary you did. Unfortunately, the map with the route you attach is no longer available. Is it possible for you to send it to me, with all the pins and notes you said it has?? (apparently the link you paste from google maps (or maps me) is now broken or something).
Many thanks!!
Hi Sebastian,
Thanks for your comment, I believe we have already spoken now via email and the map is working.
Best of luck on your travels and I hope you enjoy revisiting this route!
Cheers,
Andy