In 2025, motorcycle traveller Jodie Rogers did something every overlander thought impossible: she rode a motorcycle across China unescorted. Here’s everything you need to know to ride through China on a foreign-registered bike without a guide…
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How to Ride Through China Unescorted
By Jodie Rogers
Had a dream, turned it into reality.
aka: Two Wheeled World Tour
Why ride through China?
My dream is to ride across the globe on my own motorcycle. And for me, crossing China is part of that journey.
China is an incredible country to ride through, and I’m very, very grateful to have done it unescorted. Occasionally, I crossed paths with the group I entered with and rode together for a few days, but mostly I rode solo.
One thing you may not know: China only began opening up to foreign tourism in recent decades. Before 2007, foreigners couldn’t legally drive in China.
Can you ride through China unescorted?
Yes, you can ride through China unescorted. However, as a foreigner on the 30-day visa-free option, I couldn’t do it without engaging a tour operator.
It’s important to note: I did ride without a guide – but you absolutely still need to engage a tour operator to handle the administration side of things.
But don’t you still need a guide?
Using a guide has long been the norm—until China Road Trips (the company I used) opened last year. I did my research and chose CRT because they were half the price of competitors, and going with them allowed me to ride solo. I didn’t want a chaperone, for lack of a better word.
So no, you don’t need to be escorted by a guide—but you do need a tour operator to handle the entry and exit logistics.
Why travel without a guide?
It suited me perfectly. I didn’t want to ride with a guide. I’d ridden from Sydney through Timor-Leste, Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, and Laos to China solo, and I wanted the same freedom, space, and flexibility to explore on my own terms.
Some people may disagree and say that if they’re paying for a service, they expect a guide. If that’s what you want, there are plenty of companies offering escorted tours. But I chose not to have one for the leg from Laos to Kazakhstan.
Which company did you choose?
I used China Road Trips and they were fantastic. They managed all the paperwork and met us at the Mohan border. They helped me and a small group cross into China. Without their preparation and communication, we wouldn’t have made it through.
The tour operator I used handled all of the administrative paperwork. They were contactable via WhatsApp or WeChat and always answered the phone within seconds when I had a question or issue. But they didn’t stay with me for the entirety of my journey.
- Website: chinaroadtrips.notion.site
- Email: info@chinaroadtrips.com
What are the paperwork requirements?
The tour company arranged my temporary driver’s license and temporary motorcycle registration. No exam or health check was required. They also organized insurance and the import/export process for the bike.
At Mohan, we didn’t have to X-ray our bags—it was a simple visual inspection.
I had to produce my vehicle registration, passport, driver’s licence as well as a few other documents. If there was anything I didn’t have, the company helped me get it.
There was then a lot of back-end import/export paperwork, which I didn’t see as the company handled that side of things.
China route
They worked with me to plan a route from Laos to Kazakhstan within my timeframe and suggested places to see along the way.
Oh, just a heads up if you’re going the same way – the road about 20 km from/to Botan (on the Laos side) is rough. It’s underwater, potholed, full of trucks, muddy, slippery, and dangerous. Be ready for a challenge!
Support
They helped some people in the group get physical SIM cards and assisted others who had bike issues—either helping them truck their bikes to Beijing or connecting them with local repair shops.
Our welcome guide stayed with us for two days, making sure we all knew how to use VPNs, navigation, accommodation booking apps, and electronic payment tools.
Having a tour company behind you provides reassurance. Sometimes, locals tried to speak with me, but even translation apps didn’t help. A quick call to my guide sorted everything out. I only needed assistance three times in 22 days—twice for ID checks and once at the Khorgos exit, where police asked for a “motorbike passport” (they meant registration papers).
Where can you ride?
You’re only allowed to ride in the provinces listed on your permit, which is agreed upon during route planning. You can travel to other provinces by train or plane, just not with your vehicle. My permit covered Yunnan, Gansu, Sichuan, and Xinjiang—I can’t speak to other regions.
Accommodation
I could stay in any hotel I chose. I booked my own accommodation and chose my own route to reach the itinerary destination for each day. I had to follow the general itinerary, but I had flexibility. I initially thought I might camp, but China is densely populated. The few campgrounds I saw were packed (due to school holidays), and the RV parks were mostly for motorhomes—not ideal for tents.
Here are the apps I used:
Toll roads
In Yunnan province, we were allowed to ride on toll roads without paying.
In Gansu, motorcycles weren’t allowed on toll roads, so I used national and provincial roads. Traffic in Gansu and Sichuan was heavy due to construction. Same situation in Sichuan regarding toll roads and accommodation—everything was manageable.
Xinjiang was a bit more intense. Police presence was higher.
Some toll roads in Xinjiang don’t allow motorcycles, but on most, I had no issues. I was given an electronic toll card and paid upon exit.
Petrol
Xinjiang was a bit more intense. Police presence was higher, fuelling up was more complicated. Petrol stations were fenced and gated, but once I explained I was a foreigner—smiling and removing my helmet—they let me in using their Chinese ID card (others had different experiences).
It’s easy to buy fuel and there’s always an attendant, but here are some fuelling notes:
Explaining that you want it ‘full’ is surprisingly tricky.
You are not permitted to fill fuel bottles, plastic containers or fuel bags.
In some petrol stations in Xinjiang, you must ‘walk the bike in and out’ as it’s an ignition source – don’t worry, the security staff will tell you..
Police and following the rules
China has stricter rules than any country I’ve ridden in, and you must follow them. The police are curious because you’re on a foreign vehicle. They won’t chase you down—they’ll wave you in at checkpoints. They’ll check your passport, visa, driver’s licence, and vehicle registration.
Upon entry into China, you’re issued a card that says you must report to police each night when you reach your destination. You don’t need to do this manually—your hotel will collect your passport, ask where you came from and where you’re headed, and handle it. It may seem excessive, but if you read about Xinjiang’s history, you’ll understand the strict security.
What about exiting China?
Exiting China is slow and detailed—be prepared to remove all your bags off the bike for inspection at the border.
Once we received our paperwork off the tour operator’s representative (who met us the night before departure for a farewell dinner and again at the border in the morning) and passed through the first gate, we were then without the guide.
However, we still called the tour operator on the phone to help clarify whilst at customs on Chinese side. It was all very easy.
How safe is it riding through China unescorted?
I never once felt unsafe—personally or for my bike. China is blanketed with surveillance—speed cameras, red-light cameras, street cameras, hotel cameras. It’s a very developed, highly modern country. Its infrastructure is extraordinary, and I respect the security and order.
Xinjiang, which has higher security was also fine, and I met some of the kindest people there. The locals were incredibly friendly and curious about our journey.
What were the costs like?
- Accommodation: $12–$16 USD per night
- Meals: $1–$3 for breakfast, $3–$6 each for lunch and dinner
- SIM cards: $45 total for two, used ~ 60GB data
- Fuel: $7–$10 per tank (vs $15–$16 in Australia)
The tour company cost is dependent on three main factors:
- Your chosen route
- The number of days of travel
- The number of travellers in your group
As each trip will be very different, it’s hard to give an approximate costing. However, for a very rough ball park figure, expect to pay upwards of $1,600 USD for one person/bike. If you’re two-up, you can expect to pay more. For an accurate cost specific to your needs and trip, contact China Road Trips.
When to go?
June is school holiday time but not peak tourist season. Peak hits in August depending on the province. Expect busier roads and longer lines as locals travel out of the cities into the countryside. With over 1.4 billion people, it gets crowded fast so avoid peak seasons and do your research on the weather conditions for where you’re planning to ride.
Escorted tours
What worked for me may not work for you. Do your research and find what suits you best. For unescorted riding, contact the company mentioned above.
If you prefer an escorted ride, then have a read of this article on how to do that. And also note that if you ride an escorted tour, you can also bolt on a trip to Tibet while there.
READ MORE: How to Transit China With a Guide
About the author
Jodie Rogers
I learned to ride off road in 2022. Crossed one of Australia’s biggest deserts on a DR 200 and it grew from there. Vietnam, Himalayas (twice) Georgia, Sri Lanka, Nepal… I wanted to keep riding and keep exploring so now I am riding around the world on my Honda Rally.
You can follow Jodie’s adventures here:
- Facebook: Two Wheeled World Tour
- Instagram: @twowheeledworldtour
Read more on motorcycle travel in China and Asia
Thanks for checking out the How to Ride China Unescorted Guide. We hope you enjoyed it! Here’s a few more articles on motorcycle travel in China and Asia that we recommend you read next.
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Are you planning a motorcycle trip in China? Do you have any questions, tips or suggestions? Let us know in the comments below.
Hi
Are there any age restrictions? I’m 77 and have been refused a rental before (Vietnam) because of age
Hi Christopher
I do believe there is an age restriction.
Best to contact China Road Trips for precise information.
Email : info@chinaroadtrips.com | WhatsApp : +8617740224255
Goodluck!
Thanks Jodie
70 is the age restriction but your tour company can arrange for a fee to let you ride in China.
That’s awesome and whilst our off-road abilities pale in comparison, we will look at this as we always assumed, guides and groups were essential. Thank you!
You people may not believe it as I did not at the time, but in 2004 I legally managed to cross to China on my KLR 650 through a newly opened border for international travel between Laos and China. It was a huge luck with many great circumstances coming together for me and mostly due to the fact that that border was just opened for internationals that very week and it was Sunday, where it seemed that only young, inexperienced officers were left working there while the older ones were enjoying their Sunday with their families, I ended up with a very officially-looking piece of A4 paper with a big round stamp on it, which, wherever I showed it after that inside China, I felt like they started to see me as someone with “contacts in higher places”. I rode there for about a month, never reporting where I was staying as I was staying even with families or in brothels 😀 – both by accident, finding the fact out only after I moved in 🙂 and once I slept in a “forbidden area” where the nice people who gave me shelter also called the tourist police on me in the morning. However, again, I showed the official stamped paper and was let go with just a warning after being explained to that the officer could have locked me up and deport. Unfortunately, because of a girl that was not even worth it (which I knew at the time, too, but the head sometimes has a hard time to beat the heart 🙂 ) I returned after only 1/3 of my way through China. I knew I would always regret it but could not do otherwise at the time.
Brilliant stuff! What an adventure you had. Nice to hear about all the people you met, apart from the ones who called the cops haha
Grazie
This is fantastic. What was the cost from the agent’s company please, if you don’t mind me asking? I know it’ll be bespoke to where you go etc but knowing your cost will help to know whether this would be a consideration for us.
Hi Isabel, not sure if you saw but there has been an update to the cost section, which now lists an approx price. Hope this helps.
Cheers
Andy
Hi Andy. Stumble upon your great adventure, in my earlie steps of plannning a RTW trip. I’m like Isabel wondering on what your unescorted price via the China Road Trips agent was. Just so I have an idea in the whole calculation. Br. Jesper / Safe travel
Hi Jesper, thanks for your comment.
The cost is listed in the section called: “What were the costs like?”
It explains you should expect to spend upwards of 1,600USD.
Thanks,
hi, may i know the fixed cost entering china with/without guide?
Hi Hafiz,
There isn’t a fixed cost, as explained in this article, it is all very dependent on a number of variables. You will need to contact the company listed in this article directly for a quote. Their email is listed above.
Cheers
Andy
To buy a Third Party Liability Insurance – which insurance company do you recommend?
Hi Gunnar, if you’re after third-party liability insurance for China, the tour company you go with will help you arrange the paperwork and insurance provider.
Cheers
What was the time frame from Laos to Kazakhstan on your ride? Do you believe you felt rushed on the 30 day visa free option?
Regards
Baz
Hi Baz
24 days was perfect for me as I had a specific end date for this stage of my journey. There were a couple of big days and a few shorter ones with planned rest days also. It will all depend on your time frame. I feel if I shortened the time frame, it would have put pressure on. If you can, stay longer, its an incredible country to explore.
Regards
Jodie
Cheers Jodie